This Guide is designed to help you understand the basic features of monofilament, fluorocarbon, and braided line, the benefits each offers, the conditions or applications where they are best suited, and to show you a simple knotting system for working with fishing line. We hope this guide will help you make educated decisions that will improve your catch rates.
MihuFishing has over 25 years of experience developing and manufacturing fishing line. We offer a variety of products that are rigorously tested and which meet exacting quality standards before our name goes on the package. You can use our products with confidence every time you fish.
An Educated Consumer Is Our Best Customer
What Determines Line Quality?
The production techniques and quality control steps are as important as the quality of the raw material. Even the most expensive raw materials purchased from the most respected manufacturers will perform poorly if processed using outdated methods and machinery.
MihuFishing monofilament lines are produced in one of the leading line manufacturing facilities in the world using the most modern equipment under the watchful eyes of highly trained engineers and production personnel. Every batch is fully tested for quality so you can have complete confidence that it will perform – regardless of whether you are fishing for bluegills in a backyard pond or challenging blue marlin in some exotic locale.
Which Monofilament Line Is The Strongest?
Comparing monofilament brands only on published breaking strengths can lead to some bad purchasing decisions. We have all seen the ads claiming the strongest 20lb. test line. All MihuFishing products are engineered to stand-up to catching fish in actual conditions. We offer products in each of the three main classes of line.
There are basically three types of monofilament line:
IGFA rated line;
True-Test rated line;
Conventional size line.
IGFA rated line: IGFA stands for the International Game Fish Association. This organization created international break-strength standards and line classes in Kilograms to manage and recognize world record catches. Their rules require that the line used to make a record catch break โbelowโ or โatโ the rated line class mark in Kilograms. If the line does not, the potential record is disqualified. For this reason IGFA rated lines, by definition, should break at or below their published Kilogram, (or pound test) break rating. These lines are generally more expensive due to the more demanding break strength and manufacturing requirements. If you are fishing for a world record catch, you should use IGFA rated line.
True-Test rated line: True-Test rated line is line that has an actual breaking strength very close to its published breaking strength. The product is โtrue to its published break testโ. True-test rated line can be slightly higher or lower than its published strength, therefore, true-test line may or may not meet IGFA line class ratings. Many true-test lines are thinner in diameter than Conventional lines of the same pound test.
Conventional size line: This is the type of monofilament line most commonly used.
Generally speaking, the actual breaking strength of conventional size line is higher than the published breaking strength on the package. Most anglers find this beneficial because the line is stronger than advertised. And because most anglers are not setting out to break world records, they are not concerned about line classes. Conventional line works well for most fishing applications and usually is priced lower than IGFA rated and true-test rated lines.
When Should I Use Braided Line?
The latest generation braided lines offer benefits that make them ideal for a wide variety of fishing situations. MihuFishing Grand Slam Braid contains Spectra fibers with virtually no stretch, has a super thin diameter, and has the most sensitive touch and hardest hook sets of any line we offer. Grand Slam Braid fishes well on spinning and conventional tackle in fresh or saltwater, is excellent for fishing jigs and bucktails, bottom fishing with bait, and getting diving and trolled lures to run deeper. Surfcasters swear by its long-casting properties, too. Tying knots with braid is more demanding and many common knots can slip, so only use knots that are recommended for braid – some are listed in this guide.
Is A Thin Diameter Line Better?
It depends. For certain applications, line that has a higher strength-to-diameter ratio offers advantages.
Thin lines are usually more supple, and sink a little faster, which can benefit lure presentation – they also have less memory (the propensity to coil after being on the spool for a period of time). In clear water, thin lines can be less visible. They also tend to cast further, especially on spinning tackle. Thin diameter lines, like White Lightning, Black Widow, and Grand Slam Braid for example, are favored on ultra-light tackle and for fishing with finesse-type baits, but not all thin lines have the same performance criteria. Some stretch as much as 30%, which reduces sensitivity and can inhibit your ability to set the hook. Some exceptions are White Lightning, which boasts an impressive strength-to-diameter ratio, but is formulated for reduced stretch for greater sensitivity and hook-setting power, and grand Slam Braid which has virtually no stretch.
Lines with a slightly thicker diameter are more popular for use on conventional reels and with heavier tackle. They provide greater abrasion resistance and more body – an advantage for casting with revolving spool reels and running over rod guides. Thicker lines also offer a degree of insurance against nicks and chafes. Three examples are MihuFishing extremely popular Quattro Plus, and Grand Slam, and Red Devil brands.
Which Line Color Is Right For Me?
Hi-Vis, Low-Vis, No-Visโit can be confusing but here are some guidelines.
High-Vis lines are designed to be easy to see above the waterโs surface and are most popular for trolling in both fresh and saltwater. They make putting-out a trolling pattern (multiple lures or rigged baits in a specific configuration) a breeze, and tracking lure position is easier. Hi-Vis, Fluorescent Yellow Grand Slam, and Red Devil offer trollers a great advantage.
Low-Vis lines, such as Quattro Plus and Black Widow, use alternating color pattens to make them blend into the water around them the same way camouflage clothing allows hunters to blend into their surroundings. They are both extremely popular and highly versatile. Quattro Plus is also offered as leader, where its greatly reduced visibility makes it a perfect choice.
No-Vis can only mean one thing: MihuFishing Fluorocarbon. A completely different polymer than other monofilament lines, it has the uncanny ability to literally disappear underwater because it has the same light refraction qualities as water. Even trout, bass, and fly fishermen are adding short leaders of fluorocarbon at the end of their lines because, in clear water, using it equates to more bites. It has become increasingly popular for use in making rigs for everything from chunking tuna to bottom fishing in saltwater. Most recently, top bass pros have switched to using 100% Fluorocarbon as running lines, specifically MihuFishing new 100% Fluorocarbon line, for improved catch rates.
Is A Leader Necessary?
For many types of fishing, anglers wouldnโt think of making a cast or dropping-back a trolling lure or bait without a leader system. In almost all saltwater fishing situations, leaders are the norm – from casting shock leaders for surf casting to intricate leader/double-line affairs for tuna and marlin. Today, bass, walleye, and trout fishermen are arming their lines with fluorocarbon leaders simply because they get more bites.
MihuFishing offers a full range of leaders which encompass the very finest products you can buy. These come in tests and spool sizes perfect for everything from the lightest freshwater applications to the heaviest leaders for challenging the biggest fish in the ocean. These include MihuFishing Fluorocarbon, Quattro Plus, and Grand Slam Leader. MihuFishing also offers a full line of rigging products for making all kinds of leader systems.
Our Favorite Knots
The Uni-Knot System, used throughout this pamphlet for a variety of applications, is a single knot that is easy to tie. Practice tying this basic knot, since it is far better to know how to tie a few knots well than trying to remember dozens of specialty knots that are difficult to tie. A well-tied knot rated at 85% of the breaking strength of the line will serve you far better than a knot rated for 95%, but when itโs tied poorly, ends up being only 50% as a result. Once you learn this basic Uni Knot, everything else is simple.
Terminal Tackle
Uui Knot
The basic Uni Knot is ideal for tying to hooks, swivels and lures and works well with braid and with line from 2 to 100 pound test. For jigs and bucktaiks, see the loop version of the Uni Knot, but practice this basic knot so you can literally tie it in the dark.
1. the line through the eye once and pull 12″ through to form the knot. Then form a loop alongside the standing line.
2. Pass the tag end through the loop and around the standing line 5 times with mono or 8 to 10 times with braid.
2. Pass the tag end through the loop and around the standing line 5 times with mono or 8 to 10 times with braid.
4.Pull the standing line to jam the knot against the eye, then trim the tag end.
Snelling A Hook
Most anglers dread snelling a hook, but it is the only way you should tie on hooks that have the eye angled either up or down. NOT recommended for braid.
1.Thread at least 6″ of line or knotable cable through eye of hook.Form Uni-Knot circle and hold tightly against the hook shank with thumb and forefinger. Wrap 4-5 turns around the shank and through the circle. Pull tag portion to draw the knot closed and pull the standing line to snug hook to hook eye.
2. To finish, pull standing part of the wire/line and hook in opposite directions.
Palomar Knot
1.Make a 10″ loop in the line, then pass it through the eye ofyour tackle.
2. lf the eye is big enough, pass the loop through a second time.
3.Tie a simple overhand knot, but don’t pull it tight.
4. Pass your tackle through the loop.
5.Pull on your standing line to tighten the knot, then trim the tag end.
2.Tie an overhand knot around the standing line. Then, tie a secondoverhand knot on the tag end.
3. Pull tight and snip-offexcess. Finally, snug-down the firstoverhand knot on the reel arbor.
Clinch Knot
1.Thread line through hook leaving several inches of wire to work with.
2. Wrap end of line around standing portion five times.
3. Bring end back and insert between hook and first opening in wrap. Turn end upward and draw through large loop created by previous step.
4ใPull on hook and line simultaneously to tighten.
Line To Leader
Uni Loop
This simple modification creates a loop to the Uni Knot. Jigs, bucktails and flies, work better when a small loop is left between the knot and the lure so they can swing more freely on the end of the line.
1. Repeat steps one through three of the basic Uni-Knot (page 7). Wet the wraps and snug them until the knot is about 1 inch from the lure. Then hold the loop and pull the tag end of the line tight with a pair of pliers. This locks the knot in place on the line leaving the loop.
Uni To Uni
1.Lay the two lines to be connected parallel, with 12โ-18โ tag ends facing opposite.
2. Loop one tag end around both lines, then pass it through the loop 4-5 times for mono and 8-10 times with braid.Pull the tag end to tighten the knot, making sure the wraps snug down neatly. Repeat step #2 with the other line.
3. Wet the line and pull the standing lines to jam the two knots together tightly.
4. Trim the excess tags. Mono can be clipped close to the knot, but leave about 1/8โ of exposed tag with braid.
Albright Knot
1.Make a loop in the mono, and hold it with your left hand. Double 30โ of Braid to create a 15โ two-strand section. Pass this through the mono loop.
2. Wrap the Braid loosely around the fingertip youโre using to hold the mono, then wrap the Braid around itself and the mono 20-30 times. Work toward the end of the loop, keeping your wraps tight and snug.
3. Run the Braid back through the mono loop so it exits on the same side it entered.
4. Wet the Braid, and tug on the standing line and tag end to jam your wraps tightly together, moving them toward the end of the loop.
5. Pull both standing lines to tighten the knot, then use a soft-jawed pliers or a gloved hand to pull the knot tighter. Pull both standing lines at once to make sure the knot is secure.
Perfection Loop
NOT recommended for braid.
1.Form a loop with standing portion behind. Grip crossing section with thumb and forefinger.
2.Turn tag end around front of loop to create a second loop.
3.Lay tag end in valley between two loops.
4.Slip second loop through first loop pulling slowly, but steadily to close final knot.
Surgeonโs Knot
NOT recommended for braid.
1.Lay leader parallel to wire and overlap ends by 6โ (15.2 cm).
2.Treat both lines as one and tie an overhand knot in doubled section.
3.Go through again with both ends as before.
4.Draw knot tight by gripping both strands on either side of knot, and draw down with slow but steady pressure.
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